Into massive, jagged, mountains, through valleys of nothing but sagebrush and thorns, past all evidence of civilization. The end of the road. That’s where you’ll find the highest vineyards in the world and the impressive Davalos estate. This bodega is not impressive for massive, showy architecture or a five star hotel, but impressive for the fact that it sits quite literally in the middle of mountains, at an altitude of nearly 8,500 feet above sea level, miles away from towns, restaurants, and general tourism. It is clear that the estate exists above all else to create excellent wines in a pristine, natural environment.
Located in the Salta region in the heart of the Calchaqui Valley at the foot of the pre-Andes mountains, Bodega Tacuil is a three-and-a-half hour drive from the nearby tourist town of Cafayate. In this respect, much of the wine region surrounding Cafayate is a welcome respite from the craze that can be wine touring in the States, a very far cry from the likes of Napa or Sonoma. One must truly want to visit the bodegas in this region, not just to taste, but to meet the winemakers, learn about the process, and walk in the vineyards. There is no shuttle, no scenic bike ride. The road to Tacuil winds through dusty red rocks, cacti, and not much else. In the summertime, the sun beats down intensely and the wind blows hot gusts. No rest stop, no convenience store, no ice cream stand.
Travelling this dry and barren portion of the Salta wine route, it is hard to see how anything grows successfully in this area, but the specific terroir of the region proves excellent for the cultivation of certain grapes (namely Malbec, Cabernet, and Torrontes) and the production of some of the most powerful and unique wines Argentina has to offer. During my recent visit to Salta, I had the good fortune to be invited to the Davalos estate for lunch and a tasting with the winemaker. The experience was one in a million, with fantastic wines, breathtaking scenery, hearty homemade pasta, and great conversation with a winemaker who is passionate about doing things his own way.
Upon arrival at the bodega, we were greeted in the driveway, in front of the austere family house by the junior Raul Davalos, smiling and sharply dressed. Our host led us to the patio where glassware, cheeses, and one bottle of each of Tacuil’s four fantastic red blends waited, open and breathing. We began with the RD, the name an homage to the elder Raul Davalos. A blend of 50% Cabernet, 50% Malbec, the RD is highly concentrated yet focused, with mature red fruits, precise minerality, subtle notes of smoke and game, and blooms of ripe green bell pepper, a flavor typical of Cabernet from this region. Like all of the Davalos wines, the RD demands attention right away, constantly revealing new flavors and aromas in the glass and on the palate. These are not wines that one imbibes idly! The marked savory characteristics inspire thoughts on pairing, my mind first going to braised lamb with rosemary and thyme.
Beautifully, the wine has seen no oak. Davalos is generally anti-oak treatment, only breaking this rule in crafting his Dona Ascension, a wine that has been very well received in the U.S. Even then, the Dona only sees 10 months in new French oak barrels and, at around 5,000 bottles a year, Dona Ascension has the largest production of all of the wines in the portfolio. Rich, with intense black plum and cherry aromas, Dona Ascension is distinct for it’s notes of sandalwood, toast, and vanilla. At only 13.5 abv, it represents the most friendly and approachable wine of the Tacuil portfolio, while still offering incredible depth and complexity.
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