Mendoza Tasting Group Chardonnay Night!!

Success!! Last night was the first meeting of the Mendoza Tasting Group, a project I've been in the process of organizing since I arrived in Mendoza. I'm happy to report that all went terrifically- not only did we have an interesting and varied selection of chardonnays to taste, but we also had an interesting and varied group of tasters!! From the UK, Canada, Napa, Argentina, New York, we had sommeliers, tour guides, travelers, and general wine lovers. The meeting turned out to be a great forum for exchanging ideas, making connections, and learning more about Mendoza and the wineries.

Sol y Vino, a lovely wine shop on Sarmiento, was the perfect venue for the meeting. I arrived half an hour early to find glasses, napkins, and tasting mats all nicely set up and the wines were chilled and ready to go. After some furniture arranging, we were set to taste five chardonnays.  Why chardonnay, you ask? Quite frankly, I chose chardonnay because I kind of hate it. It will be the last thing that I order at a restaurant or ask to sample in the tasting room. Maybe I am scarred from too many over-oaky California butter-bombs, but there's something about the grape that inherently just doesn't agree with my palate. Too often I find them plasticy, bitter, or candy-like. This wouldn't be a problem were I just a wine-drinker and not a wine-recommender and a wine-seller. I need to know the styles and producers of the region. Also, the more I taste, the greater the chances I'll encounter something I actually like. At least that's the idea.

The group tasted five wines from different regions and bodegas. Here are my notes:

(prices are in pesos)

2009 Caelum Clasico $45
Tupungato, Valle de Uco 1150 msnm

Caelum is a new project owned by an Argentine family from Buenos Aires. The finca includes a large pistachio farm, one of the few in the entire country! Italian-born Guiseppe Franceschini heads the winemaking.

Tasting note: Pale greenish yellow, bright and plenty reflective, the wine is super fresh and zesty.  Citrus aromas like grapefruit and lime, a bright but slightly creamy body, and lively acidity. Though not particularly complex, the wine is quite agreeable and pleasantly has little to not oak treatment so the fresh citrus and apple flavors really dominate. Surprisingly gluggable for 45 pesos a bottle.

2008 Pulenta Estate $55
Alto Agrelo, Lujan de Cuyo 980 msnm

Pulenta Estate is run by two Argentine brothers of Italian descent, Eduardo and Hugo, whose family has been in the winemaking business for years. This winery has been around since 2002 and they currently own 135 hectares of vines in the Lujan de Cuyo. The winemaker is Manuel Gonzalez.

Tasting note: Corked! Unfortunate. Noticeable moldy musty smell on the nose but kept surprisingly bright fruit on the palate. Cork itself reeked of taint. Was also able to pull out some green apple and vanilla aromas but with more time in the glass, the wine faded and faded. It was a good experience for the newer tasters unfamiliar with corked wines! But a bit disappointing, nonetheless.

2007 Huarpe Taymente $67
Barrancas, Maipu 780 msnm

Another new project out of Maipu, Huarpe is a familial winery run by the Hernandez Toso brothers, Maximiliano (founder and director) and Jose (enologist).

Tasting note: Intense, deep golden color with brownish tints. The color of butterscotch candies. Powerful sweet aromas of dried pineapple, butter, and toasted hazelnut. As close to California style chardonnay as anything I've tasted in Argentina. Overall, the wine struck me as a bit unbalanced and overdone. The 50% American oak ageing was painfully evident, adding a coconut sweetness that perhaps belongs better in a candy store than in a wine bottle. Not my style, but perfect for those lovers of old school Cali chard.

2009 Atamisque Catalpa $90
Tupungato, Valle de Uco 1300 msmn

Atamisque is a French-owned winery in the Valle de Uco that proudly produces wines made by renowned Argentine winemaker Roberto de la Mota. The property includes a trout farm, which may account for the food-friendly nature of this chardonnay.

Tasting note: Pale straw yellow in color with brilliance and reflectivity.  Crisp green apple and pear notes on the nose combine with white stone minerality, toast, and just a hint of butter. Lively and fresh on the palate with a pleasant, nutty finish. Elegant, and balanced. My favorite of the evening.

2007 Urraca Reserva $102
Agrelo, Lujan de Cuyo 950 msnm

Urraca wines are made by Mendoza cult-winemaker Walter Bressia. Small production, only 3000 bottles of this chardonnay.

Tasting notes: Clean and citrusy on the nose. Notes of tangerine, pineapple and pear as well as some chalky minerality. Sweet and fruity on the palate but ample in acidity. More minerality on the finish. Correct, but lacking in passion and complexity. A pretty wine.

Overall, the wines were surprisingly different and eventually the conversation turned to the nature of the grape. Does chardonnay have a soul? Is it slutty? We're talking about a vine that can grow in almost any climate and does. It can be everything from pineapple upside down cake to stones and apples.  In discovering the true nature of Argentine chardonnay, we had to call into question the true nature of the varietal itself, which just very well may be, a grape that wears many hats, can change clothes and personalities based on region, winemaking, oak treatment, you-name-it. For this reason also, I find it hard to really love chardonnay. How can you love something that's always changing, always showing you a different side of itself? Or does this simply make it more intriguing? Chardonnay, you're a tricky one.

And thus concluded the evening. Glasses empty, spit-buckets full, conversation flowing. Hopefully an interesting and worthwhile time for all. I know I learned a lot and maybe even started to hate chardonnay less.


Looking forward to the next tasting... what will it be next?

* If you want to join the group, send me an e-mail or check out the group on facebook!